Chiricahua Dreamland

Light Years Away in Southern Arizona

by Kimberly Hundley

Rising from the mist like a prehistoric city, the spires of eroded rocks at Chiricahua National Monument in Southeastern Arizona bore silent witness to our awe as my companion and I arrived. Their mocking presence said it all: We had been guilty of having overlooked one of nature's masterpieces lying in wait just four hours from Phoenix. The forest of stone pinnacles, some stout and others impossibly thin for their height, bristled across the entire outlook vista. A magical scene, if hobbits and elves had scrambled from the juniper groves to lead us on a "Wonderland of Rocks" quest, I wouldn't have been surprised.

This three-day loop into southern Arizona was a first step toward redemption for NIMBY travel. No more Mardi Gras, Sonoma or Cape Town until I'd ventured into a few more corners of my home state, which, let's face it, has a heightened budget appeal these days. My itinerary focused on Cochise County, replete with up-and-coming wineries, bed and breakfasts, and miles upon miles of grassy valleys, rolling plateaus and pristine mountains.

My goals were simple, at least in woman terms. In one weekend, I would taste the grapes and dine at Coronado Vineyards in Willcox; renew my soul at a spiritual B&B named for the Village of Dos Cabezas where "ghost towning" is a verb; be awakened by howling coyotes; frolic with javelina after a burrito breakfast; experience at least two amazing nature hikes; and savor a "green" gourmet meal in the foothills of the Chiricahua Mountains.

I accomplished it all, and more. Well, the javelina never showed, but the stars sure did. Just when I was sure they'd all died and gone to heaven, there they were, shining with the gusto of a second-grader's glittering valentine. In Phoenix, we may have lost our stars to city-light pollution, but down south, the night skies thrive.

GRAPE STUFF

The first official jump from the car was the Coronado Vineyards tasting room, where managing owner Jacque Cook introduced us to a range of wines, the highlight of which is a sweet white. Purchase a bottle to go, and you can try all nine of Coronado's wines at an alarmingly reasonable price. The warm and welcoming tasting bar is reminiscent of anything you'd find in Sonoma, and the dining room opens onto vineyard acreage snuggled against sloping hills. If that view doesn't suit your fancy, spin around for an eyeful of nothing but yucca, grass, mountain and cloud-studded skies stolen from postcards. Take that, Napa.

On Friday nights, Coronado serves up an impressive dinner, sometimes serenaded by a talented couple who plays everything from Bob Dylan to Weird Al Yankovic. The menu changes weekly, but fresh, plump Mexican shrimp accompanied the rib eye during our visit; think crustaceans through April.

DOS CABEZAS

Next, we headed toward our B&B, a short journey from the vineyards and another world away from Phoenix. Dos Cabezas Spirit and Nature Retreat is not your typical lodging. Originally a homestead ranch in the 1850s, the place was bought and refurbished with love by Charmayne and Jon Samuelson as their "semiretirement" project. "Our idea was a small, private, cozy bed and breakfast for one or two couples-not an eight-room thing; not a 'resort,'" explains Charmayne.

We found ourselves in a charmingly appointed bedroom/bath adobe guesthouse. No TV, no radio, but the adjacent meditation room was outfitted with a puzzle, comfy rocking chair and piles of books on Eastern spiritual philosophies. Dos Cabezas typically attracts geo-tourists, birders, historians and travelers who prefer javelina snorts to breakfast-room chitchat.

That night, my traveling companion and I opened a bottle of wine from Coronado and fought over who got the rocking chair. At 3 a.m., the unearthly yipping of coyotes roused me from a deep slumber, melting away another layer of city skin.

TRAIL MIX

Over a breakfast of homemade Southwestern burrito in roasted chile sauce with a side of fresh apple crumble, the Samuelsons educated us about the area's mining history (Dos Cabezas is considered one of Arizona's top ghost towns) and birding opportunities (April/May is prime hummingbird season). But we stuck to our agenda, striking out for the Chiricahua monument, one step closer to Sunglow Ranch and just a skip down the highway from Dos Cabezas.

Regardless of your hiking ability, the monument delivers the goods. A winding 8-mile scenic drive climbs virtually straight up from the entrance to an overlook called Massai Point (elevation 6,870 feet). I easily navigated the short nature trail from the parking lot for jawdropping views of the dramatic pinnacles, surrounding valley and distant grasslands. A paved walkway circling an exhibit building is wheelchair accessible and dotted with signs describing the geology and history of the Chiricahua, a refuge for the Apache tribe during the days of Cochise and Geronimo.

The monument maintains 17 miles of trails through the near-untouched wilderness. Hardcore hikers can tackle Echo Canyon and the Heart of the Rocks to discover balanced rocks and other erosion-sculpted wonders in the volcanic mountains. Don't forget your camera to capture the thrilling vistas.

HUNGRY FOR MORE

We headed to our final destination: Sunglow Ranch. Located on 400 acres that interlock with another 300,000 of national forest, the recently renovated property houses nine casitas and the Sunglow Café. Each casita has its own theme and a little patio adjacent to a shared courtyard. We were greeted by manager Susan Nunn, one of those people you feel you've known forever.

Though Sunglow, once an old ranch property, truly nestles into the foothills of the Chiricahua, this side of the mountain region is less dramatic than the Lord of the Rings backdrop. However, you can step outside your casita and immediately start hiking trails that snake through the juniper, oaks and pines. A pond with a flock of domesticated geese lies just beyond the café.

"People come to hike and bird, and also to step out of the rat race and to kind of 'be,'" Nunn says of the retreat's clientele. "The mountains are so magical, it's amazing what they bring to everybody." An amateur astronomer purchased Sunglow because the secluded location made it ideal for stargazing. Several "star pads" with electrical outlets have been constructed near the pond for the modern astronomer.

Our three-course organic dinner exceeded expectations. The café, built from the original farmhouse, is equal parts charm and warmth. Nunn and her staff prepared wild salmon dressed in a relish of mango and apple, with orange pound cake buried in beaten cream for dessert.

Tired, full and content, we carefully walked back to our casita in the pitch black evening, lit only by glistening constellations. The quiet was absolute. We sat reading in our casita, lulled by the crackling fireplace. Why hadn't anyone told me this kind of experience was waiting in my own backyard?

On the drive back, I studied my new Arizona map, plotting our next jaunt down south. I'm thinking maybe Bisbee, Kartchner Caverns and Tombstone. But this time, I fully intend to meet a spelunking javelina and see a ghost. Who needs Vegas?

WAY TO GO

Take I-10 east through Tucson toWillcox; Exit 344 to Coronado Vineyards; Return to I-10-BL, Exit 336 and travel 14 miles SE on Hwy 186 to the Village of Dos Cabezas; continue on Hwy 186 to Chiricahua National Monument (30 miles to entrance); continue south on Hwy 186 for 23 miles to Turkey Creek Road, following 5 miles of unpaved roadway to Sunglow Ranch; return to Phoenix via Hwy 181 east through Sunizona, then north on Hwy 191 through Pearce, and Cochise, finally intersecting with I-10 west; along Hwy 191 look for turnoffs to get a closer view of the Dragoon Mountains).

PLACES TO VISIT

DOS CABEZAS SPIRIT AND NATURE RETREAT
520.384.6474
14 miles SE of Willcox, along Hwy 186
Cost: $139 for two

SUNGLOW RANCH
520.824.3334
Off Hwy 186, in foothills of Chiricahua Mountains Cost including dinner, breakfast, taxes and gratuities: from $200 one-bedroom single occupancy to $375 for two-bedroom double occupancy with fireplace and 3 bathrooms ($70 each additional person; children 5 and younger free; 6-11 years $40)

CORONADO VINEYARDS
2909 E.Country Club Drive, Willcox
520.384.2993
Open 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun

CHIRICAHUA NATIONAL MONUMENT
45 miles SE of Willcox, Hwy 186
$5 pass per person, good for 7 days
520.824.3360, ext. 302

Kimberly Hundley is a freelancewriter based in Phoenix and an Associate Editor of Phoenix Woman.